Electric Fencing Equipments Prices Kenya

Building a good electric fence is like anything else, you get out what you put in. If you use the proper equipment and maintain the fence the result will be a permanent structure just like the barbed wire you use to use.

The advantage of using ‘electric’ or ‘high tensile fences is on average they cost less than a barb wire fence, since less materials are required (ie posts, staples, and wire) and they take less time to install. The electric fence option is also more versatile; you can take it down quickly and re-install it somewhere else.

This is particularly useful during times of drought when there are pasture shortages and producers are looking for additional grazing options.

Electric fences are mental barriers not physical barriers for all classes of cattle and grazing situations. When livestock are trained properly and the fence is working the way it was designed to (ie with the proper voltage on the fence), cattle will touch the fence once and than leave it alone. This includes all seasons of grazing or pasture confinement such as spring, summer, fall and winter.

Equipment and Installation Recommendations and Tips

Fencer/Energizer

All equipment should be purchased from a reputable company, thus ensuring good materials that will be backed by your supplier. When purchasing the energizer you should think ‘bigger is better.’ Meaning, purchase a fencer that is a little bigger than your requirements.

 This will allow for ensuring enough voltage is flowing through the wire to deal with brush and wet grass taking some of the power and for future expansions. A basic rule of thumb is you need no less than 2000 volts in the summer and 4000 volts in the winter due to thicker hair coats on the livestock and you usually do not get a proper ground because of snow.

Ground Rods

The grounding system is the most important part of the fence. Ensure you have installed your ground rods properly. You will need a minimum of 3, 6-8 foot long, rods placed at least 2 meters away from the energizer and 3 meters a part from each other. The rods and clamps are connected back to the energizer using galvanized wire.

Once the fence is installed you should check to see if the fence is properly grounded. This is done by ‘grounding’ out the fence with a metal bar and than checking the ground rods with a volt meter. If the reading on the volt meter is higher than 200 volts you need more ground rods. There should be no volt reading on the meter with a properly grounded fence.

Galvanized  HT Wire

High Tensile GALVANIZED HT WIRE 1.6mm 1200m is flexible and easy to use. It is coated with Zinc to make it rust-resistant. Ideal as a “weaving” wire, it is shiny, versatile, and available in a variety of gauges.

It can be used for fencing purposes, strengthening an already existing fence or for electric fencing purposes as it is made from high carbon steel.

1.            Wire diameter 1,6 (+/- 0,05) mm

2.            Zinc Coating Quality: Galvanized Smooth Quality SAE 1016-1020 with minimum cover Zn 200g/m2 .

3.            Tensile strength 80-90 Kgf/mm2

4.            Wire diameter 1,6 (+/- 0,05) mm

5.            Zinc Coating Quality: Galvanized Smooth Quality SAE 1006 with minimum cover Zn 120g/m2 .

6.            Tensile strength 40-45 Kgf/mm2

7.            Packing conditions:

8.            Each roll packaging in big carriers, protected against moisture.

Insulators

When looking for electric fence insulators, there are a lot of variables. You need an insulator that matches your wire type as well as your fence post style. Mtech understands that need, and offers a broad selection of electric fence insulators for use on a wide variety of fence post styles.

Types of Electric Fence Insulators

1.            Porcelain Insulators

Porcelain insulators are made to handle any size fence wire from wire to polywire and polyrope. Zareba porcelain insulators come in several sizes and varieties.

Slightly heavier than other insulators, porcelain insulators are constructed of clay, quartz and feldspar.

When properly installed, porcelain insulators will last a lifetime. However, due to the materials they are made from, they break more easily and are generally more expensive than other insulator types.

•             T-Post Insulators

Constructed of plastic, T-Post insulators are designed “snap-on” to metal T-Posts. The simple design makes installation quick and easy.

Zareba, Red Snap’r, and Fi-Shock feature an assortment of T-Post insulators in varied sizes for wire, polywire, polyrope, and polytape fencing.

T-Post cap insulators can be placed over T-Post tops to provide maximum protection from injury for horses, show cattle, and other livestock.

•             Plastic Insulators

Plastic insulators are constructed form polyethylene, polycarbonate, or nylon. They are designed to hold electrified wire and fit many different post types.

Our plastic insulators are molded from heavy-duty, high-density polyethylene and other hard plastics and feature UV inhibitors to prevent arcing and ensure all-weather performance and longevity. Plastic insulators are available in yellow, black, and white.

•             Corner Insulators

Corner insulators are designed for use on corner posts of the fence line and are capable of withstanding tension generated by the fence line pulling from anchor points or changing directions.

A corner insulator should be used at all fence line termination points.

•             Tube Insulators

tube insulators are made of durable, non-conducting UV-stabilized polyethylene plastic. These insulators are designed to be used with steel wire high-tensile fencing.

To attach tube insulators to a wood post, secure the insulator with a 2-inch barbed staple (not included).

•             Chain–Link Fence Insulators

Chain link insulators allow for electric wire to be fastened to chain-link fencing. Zareba and Red Snap’r chain link insulators are available in both metal and plastic versions.

The design of our chain link insulators extends electric wire four to six inches from the chain link fence and helps to prevent energy loss.

•             U-Post Insulators

U-Post insulators are made to fit the “U” shape found on U-Posts which are commonly made of paint-coated steel with a stabilizing plate-footer.

In addition to U-Posts, Zareba U-Post insulators will fit round or square posts and chain link fence.

•             Square Insulators

Square insulators are named for their square shape and are designed to nail or screw into wood posts.

Many types of square insulators exist to accommodate a variety of fence types including wire, high-tensile, polywire, polyrope, and polytape.

Corner Strainers

 Loose wires run a high risk of blowing around in the wind and snagging on vegetation nearby, which will drain the power source and reduce the efficiency of the electric fence. Setting up a permanent electric fence should be carefully planned in advance, with straining posts positioned at equally spaced intervals along the length of the fence, particularly in corners and at points where the ground undulates.

Undergates Cable

Undergate cable is used as a lead out cable from your energizer to the fence and for all other insulated high voltage transmissions. It is used with a range of aluminum wires and galvanized earth spikes.

• Low electrical resistance reducing power and voltage drops over large distances

• Double insulated

• Tough polyethylene sheath for abrasion resistance in the ground

• UV stabilized double insulated cable• Black

Electric Fence Braces

Braces are the backbone of any good fence, The H, or horizontal, brace has been one of the most common brace designs in multiple wire fence construction for years (Figure3.1) Whether the horizontal brace support is put at the top or more towards the middle of the posts the principals and effect are still the same.

 Electric Fence Posts

Posts are the backbone of your fence system. The type of fence post you will use in your fence system depends foremost on the purpose of the fence.

Line posts support the fence wire and keep it evenly spaced. Corner posts (generally wood) must be set deeper than line posts to withstand the strain of supporting the fence line. Temporary or portable posts are generally smaller and lighter step-in posts.

TYPES OF FENCE POSTS

Corner Posts

Corner fence posts must withstand enormous tension loads and are a vital component to constructing a solid fence. Wood posts, at least 8 feet in length, are recommended. Posts for corners should be set 24-48 inches in the ground and more than 48 inches in sandy or rocky soil.

Wood Posts

Wood posts may be the most expensive post option. Wood posts are recommended for high-tensile fence systems and other permanent fences, especially at corners, gates and termination points where there is added strain and stress.

Wood posts can also be used along the line of the fence. While using wood posts may seem costly at first, with the longevity of wood fence posts, it can pay for itself over and over again. They are available for purchase at most farm and home building supply stores.

Rebar and Fiberglass Posts

Steel rod posts (rebars) and fiberglass rod posts are ideal for portable or temporary fencing, including rotational grazing and temporary corrals. They can also be used in line posts and spacers. Since they cannot manage heavy strain, these metal posts are for the fence line, not corners. They should never be used as corner posts of a permanent fence.

T-Posts

T-Posts can be used with permanent or semi-permanent fence and do an excellent job as in-line posts. Wood posts are still needed at the corners, due to the higher strain of the fence wires at the corners.

For cross-fencing, a T-post fence is more expensive than a Step-In Post fence, but lasts longer. Use T-posts to cross-fence if you want to create semi-permanent paddocks in a large pasture. If flexibility and easy take-down/set-up is a priority then consider going with a step-in or other portable fencing post.

T-posts are driven into the ground with a handheld post pounder. Each post should be driven about 18-24 inches into the ground depending on the amount of strain the post will be under. Interestingly, most T-posts are made from recycled train tracks.

Step-In Posts

Step-in posts are an inexpensive option designed specifically for temporary fencing. . Temporary or portable posts are usually lighter and smaller. Ideal for rotational grazing, these posts will work great as in-line posts and are constructed with hooks that will handle most polytapes, polyropes, and wire. No additional clips or insulators are usually required with these posts since they are made from products with insulation properties.

Pig Tail Posts

Pig tail fence posts are another fencing option you might consider. The pig tail step-in post is ideal for managed intensive grazing applications due to its lightweight, portable construction. The little loop at the end of the post resembles a pig’s tail, hence the name.

Dont’s of Electric Fencing

•             Do not power barb wire.

•             Do not use barb wire on gates.

•             Do not use your gate wire to transfer power from one side of the brace to the other.

•             Do not leave your fence tight over winter; the wire will contract and pull your braces out of line.

•             Do not overtighten your wire when installing – just take out the slack.

•             Do not turn cattle out into a strange pasture or with cattle that have not been trained to electric fence. It is not a physical barrier and they will run through it.

•             Do not run electric wire in conjunction with barb wire.

•             Do not use copper wire to connect ground rods to fencer because they corrode.

•             Do not tighten high tensile wire if it has been kinked. It will break. Tie proper knots to reconnect.

•             Do not use low quality/power robbing supplies – you WILL replace it ALL over time and will not be HAPPY.

The most common problem with electric fence is low voltage. This could be due to one or more of the following problems.

•             Vegetation/trees on the wire.

Solution: Ensure fence is free from debris

•             Missing and/or poor quality insulator

Solution: Check insulators and replace missing and/or poor quality

•             Inadequate grounding

Solution: Add more ground rods or replace corroded ground rods

•             Low battery in solar system

Solution: Charge or replace battery or replace solar panel with a larger one

•             Too small of a fencer/energizer